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Great Escape: Turks and Caicos March 2003

Beginner’s Luck
Contemplating life as an islander in Providenciales
by CHRISTINE IDZELIS
I DIDN'T WANT TO BE ANYWHERE ELSE. NOWHERE.
Lying comfortably with my chin propped in one hand, a chilled glass of Chardonnay in the other, I watched the changing blue and green waters slip past me. The afternoon sun spilled softened light upon the island’s white beaches and low vegetation line. The tarp above me cast a soothing shadow across my back. The slow drawn-out tunes of a song carried me out to the farthest boarders of relaxation.
Sated with caviar, fresh mango and honeydew, I was at peace with myself and the world around me. So often my mind drifts off to other places and times. But, then and there, on the waters of the Turks and Caicos Islands, each passing moment was perfectly welcomed and fully embraced.
Our white wooden sailboat, the Atabeyra, set off that morning from Providenciales around 11, sending us off into the bright Caribbean with two stops on our tour of the cays. The boat was chartered through the hospitable service of Ocean Club Resorts—my place of residence during this five-day escape.
The first stop was a vast white beach where we searched for shells and sand dollars and snorkeled over colorful fish. While we explored the clear water and left footprints in the sand, the crew prepared a tropical midday meal. Naturally, conch was included on the menu—that sweet shellfish so popular there in the British West Indies. On deck, the mix of carefree attitudes kept the ambience laid-back and happy.
“Are the beaches always so empty or is it just the season?” I asked.
“Always,” the skipper said. “And if there’s someone on it, you just walk around the bend to the next one.”
The unspoiled islands certainly spoke up for the richness of simplicity. Not that Ocean Club West was at all lacking in modern comfort. Quite the contrary, my oceanfront suite was spacious and provided all the amenities and services I could have wished for, including a fully equipped kitchen and a washer and dryer. A luxury home away from home; the trouble being, it was difficult to finally leave.
The two Ocean Club resorts, situated a mile apart on the 12-mile-long Grace Beach, offer a reposeful mélange of nature and casual sophistication. The complex of condominium-style suites with Caribbean-influenced architecture sits well in the lush gardens. At Ocean Club West I enjoyed the fitness center’s spa, where I had a Swedish massage. Seeking some underwater adventure, I also stopped by the resort’s dive shop to look into some diving packages. There seemed to be possibilities for every type of pleasure, including, for the more energetic, tennis and a nearby golf course. I could also check e-mail at the business center.
Those content in doing “nothing” could be found sipping cool cocktails near the Seaside Café—the amiable restaurant and bar neighboring both the beach and the pool. The Cabana Bar and Grill over at Ocean Club similarly offered breakfast, lunch and dinner. There, you can also indulge in some international cuisine at the elegant Gecko Grill. The close proximity and reciprocal charging policy of the resorts make visiting easy.
The nights on the island are as promising as the daytime. One evening, I promenaded through the warmly lit garden to find a hammock tucked behind some tall grass and surrounded by palm trees boardering the beach. The stars, having no competing light, stretched brightly across the black sky, dropping down in front of me like a curtain falling to the ocean.
By that point, in addition to imagining my next gourmet Caribbean-spiced dinner, I had really started to wonder what life would be like as a “belonger,” as the citizens are called, or simply, an islander.
Of course, I am not alone in asking such questions, as the resort’s sailing instructor, Dave, from Canada could tell you. On the day of my lesson the wind was calm, so it was a good day for a beginner. Being out on the catamaran created a feeling of intimacy with the ocean. Navigating, it felt good to be interacting with nature, exploring her whims and responding to them. Sailing over the clear water, I noticed that even a quick glimpse can meet the sandy bottom.
The lesson ended just a few steps away from my suite. Passing by the Seaside Café to the short path leading to my back terrace, I had the feeling I was entering my own backyard. Undoubtedly, acclimation was of no particular challenge. It was far too easy trotting around with no shoes or kicking back in flip-flops. And I had instantly adapted to the sound of the waves rushing just beyond my back step, as well as evening runs, barefoot, along the beach—each ending with a rewarding dive into the surf and an uninterrupted view of a sinking sun.
On my last day, I decided to spend the final dwindling minutes bobbing in the water. Eventually, the soft Southern drawl of a woman from our group intervened.
“It’s 12:30,” she called out, meaning that it was time to get out and pack if I didn’t want to miss my plane back to New York.
Well, yeah—if.

Ocean Club Resorts, Box 240, Providenciales, Turks & Caicos, BWI, tel. 649-946-5880, 800-457-8787, fax 649-946-5845, www.oceanclubresorts.com
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